Sunday, June 15, 2014

King Dog of Austria

It is a sad day here in the Volcano household.  Our long time beloved intrepid travel companion is on his last journey. Nearing his 14th birthday, Jackson, the yellow lab who has travelled across North America by truck multiple times as well as jumping that pond we refer to as the Atlantic, is preparing for his final trip to find his favorite nap place with his Grandpa Jerry. A painful and aggressive bony tumor has found its way into Jackson's left femur, in a location where removal just isn't a good option.  Rest assured, we are doing everything possible to provide this treasured pet every comfort while we have the opportunity to do so.  Currently doggie hospice includes metronomic chemotherapy; a pain management cocktail consisting of non steroidal anti-inflammatories, opioids, Gabapentin, and gastroprotectants; infra-red laser therapy, acupuncture, cold therapy; and palliative bisphosphonates will be in the express mail tomorrow. When these are not enough, we will send him to stay with my Dad, who was always Jackson's favorite:)
But enough of the bad news, because Jackson hates it when I cry.  He tries to crawl in my lap and lick me, which is a big deal for a 70lb pet!  This dog has lived in more places than my husband, and as a travel companion has always consistently and quietly expressed his opinion.  Jackson's story began in Tucson, AZ, where he was deemed unadoptable by the local shelter due to previous owner surrender attributed to barking, digging, and jumping.  At that time he was an eleven month old intact male named 'Lucky.'  My friend Amy had contacts at the shelter and volunteered to foster him to save him from humane destruction, and one thing lead to another. The night I went to Amy's to pick him up, he walked across the back of the couch to meet me at the front door, as Amy opened it.  As we left, he lunged at the fish swimming in her fish tank, which thankfully was large enough to outweigh him and his velocity.
After weeks of obedience school at Reid Park and doggie play dates with his friend the Great Dane, the neighbor clued us in to Jackson's daily routine of jumping the backyard fence with a little help from the BBQ grill.  He would roam the great outdoors and then use the trash can to get back in the yard, all without being detected.  Makes you wonder how closely that neighbor was watching us!
We moved to Colorado for four years of vet school, the first of which we resided in a basement. We spent late nights studying for Anatomy exams and snuggling to keep warm. As veterinary sophomores, we moved to a lovely little house with a great backyard which we shared with my good friend and classmate, Amanda, and her adorable Scottie, Willy. Jackson and I briefly took up jogging, and when I got a summer internship in Belgium, Jackson went to stay with his buddy, Grandpa Jerry.  
While I was in Europe, Dad was teaching Jackson to assume the position, code for nap time, next to Dad's recliner.  Also coincidently during this time, Jackson developed an obsession for cheese, as well as Elliot Ness level sixth sense when someone might be serving themselves up some cheese.
Our third year in Colorado, we moved to a house with a large backyard, porch, sliding glass door complete with doggie door, and across the street from a park.  Jackson got a sister, Daisie the rescue Bernese Mountain dog, and he taught her how to be a dog.  They chased squirrels and barked at the neighbor dogs, and snow plowed on leash walks to itch their faces and backs and roll in the snow. My roommates and I took up amateur belly dancing, and whenever we practiced at home, Jackson would climb up into our blue sitting chair in the living room, just to be close to us.  We called it his Sultan chair.
Two years later we all drove from Colorado to Florida, for my internship.  Jackson was not a fan of sharing the backseat of the GMC Sierra with Daisie, and would rest his head on the arm rest or the shoulders of the front seats and dramatically sigh to make his discontent known.  
This became a theme over the years during our multiple long distance drives, from Florida to Arizona, Arizona to Ontario, Canada, etc.  
For a week we even lived in a Comfort Inn in Madison, WI with my mother while looking for a place to live during my 3 year surgery residency. 
And in a single wide trailer with fritzy air conditioning outside Charleston, SC in August while we waited to move into our newly bought and simultaneously rented starter house. 
When we moved to Austria and I went to the airport to pick up Jackson and Daisie, driving my colleague's six speed diesel, Jackson began barking continuously once he had seen me until he was out of his crate and sitting next to me in the passenger seat.
This dog has seen buffalo from the car window in Custer National Park, chased my horse, Norman even after flying through the air twice after deftly administered kicks from the horse (luckily no one was injured).  We once did a fun run at the vet school in Ft. Collins while I was wearing a walking cast. 
Suffice it to say, over the last thirteen years Jackson and I have been through a lot together, and I will miss him profoundly.  Be that as it may, for now, he is happily resting on his expensive orthopedic pet bed in front of the open balcony door with an oscillating fan blowing on him, the King Dog of Austria.


Sunday, May 11, 2014

A Bachelor's Tour of Amsterdam

After our very short lived return to Vienna recently, I went to work for a very busy day while Jon stayed home and readied us for the next leg of our own version of the Amazing Race. He madly did laundry, fluffed and folded, packed our bags with clothes and shoes, secured my laptop in the special zippered compartment in my roller suitcase. We settled in for a short night's sleep before we met not one but two taxis at 4:30am the next morning. While I understand Jon's concern that one might not show up on time, you might imagine the second taxi driver was not enthused that he was up at such an hour and without a client.  Nevertheless, we made it to the airport on time and I might add, for a far cheaper rate than the usual set rate. We boarded our flight, and ate our yummy sandwiches before touching down on the tarmac at Schilpol in Amsterdam. We managed to locate the train and even to buy tickets and get on going in the right direction, but we were surprised when our train, evidently an express, sailed through the station at which we wished to disembark without so much as even pretending to slow down. We were by this time on the clock: one of my abstracts had been accepted as a poster for the European Veterinary Conference and had to be on display by 10:30am that morning. It was already 9:50 by the time we stepped off the express at the next station, where after 15 minutes we were able to get on a train that would not only pass our destination, but actually stop there. We walked from the station to the conference center, where I successfully installed my poster at 10:27am.  Our next challenge was to get to our hotel.
As many of you know, I like to live and travel comfortably.  As my friend Jen once described it, "I am a hotel girl, not a motel girl." But, at the same time, I very much prefer to find a great deal that I can feel proud of.  Our trip to Amsterdam was no different.  We were travelling frugally, since we hadn't had time to budget for this trip. So I had Hotwired us a four star hotel in relative proximity to the conference center - and this time we had hit pay dirt. After a short, €10 cab ride to the modest exterior of the NH Musica, we were able to check in early. Our room was clean and comfortable, with a modern decor in neon green and a huge flat screen TV. The bathroom was luxurious in slate with a rain shower head. 
I changed my clothes and readied myself to head back to the conference, while Jon familiarized himself with the nearby public transport. He found me a bus about a block away from the hotel that would take me right to the conference center, and he began to plan his afternoon in Amsterdam.
While I spent the afternoon listening to lectures, Jon went to the Heinenkin brewery for a three hour self led tour, complete with a tasting and a canal cruise. 
He came back to the hotel with dinner from a local grocer, and we spoiled ourselves watching TV in English - Masterchef New Zealand!
The next day I again headed to my conference, excited to hear the morning's speaker, and Jon set out for the Torture Museum and Madam Toussaud's, where he caught up with George Clooney, of course. 
I had purchased Jon a bicycle tour of the famous Amsterdam coffee houses through Expedia, so Jon waited patiently at the tour's meeting point, though they never arrived.  So after a half hour, he decided to take himself on a tour of the coffee houses. He got quite lost on his back to the hotel after that, but he came back with yummy pizza for dinner and we called it a night after watching Christianne Amanpour.  
Now I know you are probably thinking I was a big travel dud on this trip, but in my defense, I had the flu the entire time, beginning with our last day in Porto. But the moral of the story is, it gave Jon free rein to explore Amsterdam. He visited the Red Light District Musuem, the House of Bols distillery, and the Dungeon. He diligently tried to see Anne Frank's house, at my recommendation, but spent more than an hour waiting in an unmoving line.  On our last day there, conference free, we went downtown to the Rijksmuseum, which had been closed for renovation on my first visit to Amsterdam in 2004. It was a beautiful spring day with Dutch tulips everywhere. We saw Blue Delft, Rembrandt, and everything in between before picnic-ing next to the pond bedecked with yet more potted tulips, as posted previously from the Rijksmuseum wifi:)
All in all, it was a successful trip despite my sickness and conference commitments, and between Jon and I, we can decisively make expert recommendations for any Amsterdam bound tourist!

Sunday, May 4, 2014

Resurfacing...

Yes, I know, it has been an unforgivably long absence.  I do apologize, and I have reasons to offer you, dear reader.  But I think instead of using up precious time on reasons, you will understand when I begin to tell you where it is I have been all this time...
First there are all the recent travels:
We have been to Jaidhof to commemorate the opening of a beautiful equine physiotherapy center on a gorgeous Austrian Spring day, when we also strolled through Krems, and courtesy of a colleague of Jon's, took a short but scenic drive along the Danube with glimpses of the renowned Wachau Valley.
Next we flew to seaside Portugal, by way of Frankfurt, where we were caught unawares by an extended layover.  What better to do,then, than to hop the train into town and take a walk by the river before settling down at Roemerplatz for some cliche but delicious Frankfurters mit Sauerkraut and Hefeweizen. (My advice here: skip the Handkase mit Musik).  We saw the Roemer Dom, a beautiful church of St. Francis, and many fantastically quaint historic buildings, all in all making up a layover far exceeding even the best of airport accomodations.
Next up we connected into Porto, where our hotel was less than impressive but entirely adequate.  After sleeping in a bit we headed for the marina to meet the bride and groom and fellow wedding goers for a cruise of the Douro River on a perfect sunny day.  We were naive, at this point, not to realize what all was in store for us.  As we boarded the ship white port was waiting on ice as an aperitif, along with local delicacy appetizers of ham on specialty bread and a gorgeous spread of tropical fruit. After cruising for about an hour the sit down lunch commenced, with a wine tasting of three additional Portuguese wines, including the esteemed vinho verdi, and herbed pork with the best warm cabbage salad I have ever eaten.  Dessert was champagne to toast the happy couple and scrumptious chocolate cake.  Several of us then elected to walk back to the center of town, and cross the bridge to the Port Caves, where we experienced a delightful tour of Sandemann from Luis, in Portuguese no less, but with the added luxury of our personal translator and colleague friend, Paulo Steagall.  After sangria in the shade, we went in search of dinner, which for the seafood lovers was a baked salted codfish, called bacuahlao.  After another flight of wine tasting we were all done for, and we wandered back to the hotel for some very necessary beauty sleep.  The wedding was the following day, and after some sunshine at the pool midday, we readied ourselves for the marathon that was to come.  The wedding was lovely and the company was excellent - we all danced until 4am when bed began to call...  Sunday was a chance for us to see the countryside at a barbeque courtesy of the groom's family.  Naturally there was homemade wine and smoked sausage to try, as well as classic baked beans and a multitude of other dishes.  Our last day in Porto was relaxed; Jon took on the duty of tourguide and did a great job by the lot of us. We ate Francesihna at the Majestic Cafe, walked to the Lello Bookstore to see Harry Potter's staircase, saw the sea, and rode the streetcar. We wandered the gardens of the Cristal Palais, strolled and photgraphed our way through downtown, and sampled the local shrimp and bread stew.

The next day we headed back to Vienna with yet another stopover, this time in my old haunting ground of Brussels, Belgium.  Jon of course had never been, so we hopped the bus and found our way to the city center, where we got Jon a Belgian waffle with caramel sauce from a street vendor to tide him over until our imminent arrival in Le Grand Place.  As always when walking to the Grand Place, he was taken aback by the narrow winding streets that prevent any glimpse of the majestic square until suddenly you are smack dab in the middle of a postcard scene.  We found a sidewalk eatery and ordered the must have, carbonade flamande with pomme frittes (they are Belgian, after all, not French!) and a round of Leffe beers (my alltime favorite).  Back at the airport after lunching, strolling, and photographing, we still had time to buy the best chocolate in the world, a box of Neuhaus truffles.

We made it back to our cozy flat in Vienna that night and slept like logs, because we knew the adventure was still in full swing!
In the interest of length and mystery, I think I will leave this as a bit of a cliffhanger and postpone the rest of the recent travel stories and exciting news for another day...

Sunday, January 26, 2014

2 Fat Girls on a Volcano Top 100 Things to See/Do Before You Die:

1. South Rim of the Grand Canyon
2. Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion
3. Walk up Monmarte and watch the sun set over Paris from the steps of Le Sacre Cour
4. Hagia Sofia of Istanbul
5. Walking tour of the Coliseum
6. The Scarab beetle ceiling, King's Palace, Brussels, Belgium
7. St. Paul's Dome at night, as seen from the Millenium footbridge, London
8. Albuquerque Balloon Festival
9. Anne Frank's House, Amsterdam
10. General Post Office, Dublin, Ireland
11. Wander through Venice on foot
12. Have tapas on the waterfront in Barcelona
13. Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest
14. Viennese New Year's Eve Concert
15. Mirabel Gardens, Salzburg, Austria
16. National Finals Rodeo, Las Vegas
17. Leed's Castle, England
18. The Greek Amphitheater ruins of Taormina, Sicily
19. Stay overnight in the monastery of Assisi
20. Cruise the Seine on a summer day
21. Live Theatre in London's West End
22. The Library at Ephesus
23. The Kentucky Derby
24. Sunset tour of the canals of Venice
25. Windjammer Days, Boothbay Harbor, Maine
26. Try Limoncello in Capri
27. Walk up the Acropolis to the Parthenon
28. Throw a coin in the Fountain of Trevi
29. Eat chocolate dipped Belgian waffles in Le Gran Place, Brussels
30. Dromoland Castle, Ireland
31. The Musee D'Orsay, Paris
32. Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam
33. Valletta, Malta
34. Marsala salt mills, Italy
35. La Familia Sagrada, Barcelona
36. U.S.S. Constitution in Boston Harbor
37. Punting on the Cam, Cambridge, England
38. The Leaning Tower of Pisa
39. The Black Fort, Inishmore, Ireland
40. Michelangelo's David, The Uffizi, Florence, Italy
41. Topkapi Palace, Istanbul
42. Empire State Building, New York City
43. Cloud Gate, Millenium Park, Chicago
44. Napa Valley, California
45. Sydney Opera House
46. White Cliffs of Dover
47. Alaska's Inside Passage
48. Niagara Falls, Canada
49. Mount Haleakala, Hawaii
50. The Sistine Chapel, Vatican City
51. The Pantheon, Rome
52. The Golden Gate Bridge
53. Barossa Valley, Australia
54. The rust colored sails of the Hooker boats, the Claddagh, Galway, Ireland
55. The Cliffs of Moher
56. Notre Dame, Paris
57. Schoenbrunn, Vienna
58. The Burren, Ireland (closer then the moon, same landscape)
59. The Maasai Mara Wildlife Reserve, Kenya
60. The Space Needle, Seattle
61. Yellowstone National Park
62. The Tribune Building, Chicago
63. The Statue of Liberty, New York City
64. The Olympic Stadium, Athens, Greece
65. The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Nursery, Nairobi, Kenya
66. Big Ben
67. The Vienna Christmasmarkt at Rathausplatz
68. Melk Abbey
69. Jackson Pollock at the Peggy Gugenheim, Venice
70. The Eiffel Tower at night
71. Palazzo Ducale, Venice
72. Amalfi Coast
73. The Karen Blixen House
74. Leopold II summer palace, Tervuren, Belgium
75. Mount Rushmore, South Dakota
76. Pike Place Market, Seattle
77. The Lipizzans performing at the Imperial Hofburg Palace, Vienna
78. The Salza River, Salzburg
79. The Belvedere, Vienna
80. Tuscany, Italy
81. Charleston, South Carolina
82. San Diego Zoo, California
83. The monuments of Washington, D.C.
84. The horse tetrad inside the second floor of Basilica San Marco, Venice
85. Savannah, Georgia
86. Newport, Rhode Island
87. Pompeii
88. Toronto, Ontario, Canada
89. Steel drum music in the Bahamas
90. The Summer Music Concert on the island in the Danube, Vienna
91. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
92. Fanuiel Hall, Boston
93. Independence Hall, Philadelphia
94. Frank Llyod Wright's Monona Terrace, Madison, Wisconsin
95. Leuven, Belgium
96. Stefansdom, Vienna
97. Vancouver, British Columbia
98. St. Augustine, Florida
99. Bruges, Belgium
100. Mt. Etna, Italy

Saturday, January 11, 2014

Wanderlust Melting Pot

As I muse, I sit immersed in a Viennese bathtub full of bubbles, drinking a full bodied Spanish red wine from a glass acquired at a boutique Virginia winery. I am reading an Italian memoir; Tuscan to be precise. My iPhone is belting out Edith Piaf from iTunes Radio, and my very American husband pops his head in the bathroom to ask if I need a top up on the wine. I tell him thanks but no, that he should finish the bottle if he likes.
And it strikes me, how there is so much to see but yet sometimes the layers of experience layer over one another, like Mille foile or a gauzy dress that you can almost see through.  We have just booked our trip to Portugal for our friend, Jules' wedding. And I have been looking forward to having some time to plan our spare time during that trip. So far we have arrived only at the fact that our five and a half hour layover in Brussels gives us time to catch the train and lunch at Le Gran Place. Jon has never been, and I hope to have a moment to stop at Neuhaus, my favorite chocolatier in the world.
To this day my dear Swiss friend, Silvia, and I argue over who has the best chocolate.
But I find myself contemplating the adventure of house shopping in Tuscany, even though we are still furnishing our apartment here in Vienna, as well as making mortgage payments on our house in Charleston, SC.
According to my TripAdvisor profile the other day, I have only seen 12% of the world. How can that be possible? I have been to 4 continents! How will I ever see everything I want to see, and have the career of my dreams as well as a wonderful and happy marriage? I need more lives, like a cat!
And oddly, at the same time, I think of all the places I have listened to Edith Piaf, and the crazy On The Globus Go adventures mom and I had in Italy, and it seems like I have already lived lifetimes.
Jon and I met this darling couple on our safari in Kenya. They were retired and traveling the world boldly. They had seen a lot, been places we haven't, and yet they were so excited for all we had seen and done, for our exciting lifestyle of adventure.
It is something I have to remind myself of, rather often, because like anything, it is easy to get bogged down I how hard the day to day is. But I believe it is like that anywhere, so I hope to enjoy everything this opportunity has to offer, and to try to ignore the difficult days. 
For example, I found out last week that my PhD, in Holland, will be largely based in Bioengineering. I have no experience or training in Engineering, but those who knew my dad are laughing with him about this!
So for now, we will try to keep living the dream, for as long as it lasts. And we will try our best to chuckle at the many, many bumps in the road.

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

And so the New Year Begins...

Here it is another year, and the Twitter feed is full of people asking what travel destinations, bucket list items, and new year resolutions everyone has planned. All that is well and good, but what about enjoying the season?  I know there is a lot going on, but everyone seems so rushed to move on. What happens to all those great moments we spent, celebrating the Christmas spirit and ushering in the New Year? Do they just get lost in a sea of checking items off a list? Isn't the point of having memories being able to pause, look back, and reflect on those special moments?
Don't get me wrong, I have plenty of travel destinations in mind myself for this brand spanking new year.  We will head to Portugal for the wedding of two dear friends, and we are planning to head back to the US to visit Jon's family in December.  No doubt there will be many more trips throughout the year: I have my heart set on showing Jon some of Italy, and we are dying to visit Prague.  Skiing would be fun as well, since we are in Austria and all. 
But I think it is important to fully take the time to cherish these moments we experience in life. For example, last night my mother, my husband and I made our way through a misty evening in downtown Vienna to the dramatically lit Palais Auersperg. We were ushered into a vaulted oval performance hall lined with rose marble walls and exquisite crystal chandeliers, where we listened to an orchestra featuring a famous antique violin known for appearances at the esteemed Viennese Philharmonic Silvester.  At Intermission we sipped champagne and strolled among the oil paintings on display, undaunted under lavish chandeliers. 
The performance featured an opera duo as well as a ballet duo, and Jon was really enthralled by the opera pieces. At the end of the evening, there was a last piece that featured the opera singers, who had been singing in Italian. This last song was fast and in German, and involved champagne toasts, but I think it was an Austrian tradition, kind of like their version of Auld Ange Syne.  
We headed home to check on our nervous yellow dog and were met by a constant barrage of fireworks. They were everywhere, flickering against the night clouds, sounds exploding all around.  As midnight came and went, people set so many store bought Roman candles off from the street that we could see them just sitting in our 2nd floor living room with the blinds open.  We popped some tiny bubbly bottles that Santa had left in our Christmas stockings and rang in the new year watching the crazy fireworks with Castle on in the background.  For New Year's Day we have tickets to a hockey game near the house, and we are starting our own tradition of New Year's shrimp cocktail and split pea soup with ham. 
This holiday season has been fun, but I think next year we will make some New Year's plans to be out of the city.  The trains apparently don't run, so you have to leave early or drive yourself. And as I much as I enjoy fireworks, I think last night we all felt like it was a WWII reenactment.